The Sexy Bits

I knew coming to Ghana would bring opportunities to take classes and see things that my own university and culture does not offer…but I never realized just how cool it all would be. I am, proudly and loudly, enrolled in African Traditional Dance. We learn dances to actual drumming and singing that Ghanaians have been chanting since the beginning of time. We shake our rumps with wonderful expressions of past traditions. One dance we have learned- very tricky dance indeed- portrays old ways of harvesting and thankfulness to Earth; it’s so beautiful and exciting, but let’s just say…I am so white. A Ghanaian girl in my class, Benedicta, is absolutely wonderful. She gets so giddy and enthusiastic whenever I get the steps right, or like she says, “Move like a Ghanaian”. I’m half thankful that none of you will ever get to see this, but I’m also half disappointed that you’re missing out on some quality African dancing (not that it’s real quality when I’m the one flailing around). Being a part of these dances and aspect of the Ghanaian culture has made me see how influential Africa has been to the rest of the world, especially America.  I’m pretty sure half of the moves and rhythms I have been learning were somewhere in Beyoncé’s earliest to latest albums. It’s so funny seeing how much of their traditions have been mixed with our own culture to equal jazz, hip-hop, all the way to rap and back again to anything you can shake to. It made me think of all the other aspects of African culture that have been passed on to other countries.

Chapter 5: The Sexy Bits

African music focuses on the lower half of the body; it’s all very fluid and natural as opposed to the stiff ways of the white man. The feet have to be quick and thoughtful while the butt is like the drum of the music-it keeps the rhythm and is the “show off” area. This makes me wonder: does African traditional music focus on the lower body because it is so sexualized, or has traditional African music itself sexualized the lower body?

In Ghana, a woman can walk around with her shoulders showing and breasts popping out and hardly be glanced at; however, I can be walking around in a half-length dress and nearly have my ankles nipped at. After the introduction of globalization, new fashions have opted Ghanaians to be a bit more revealing downstairs. The men are becoming desensitized to seeing more and more leg, but they still tend to get a good glance. Ghanaian men say that up top we all have the same thing, only different sizes, while the lower body is an entirely different story…obviously. As someone who already attracts enough attention here, I am very, extremely careful of what I wear on my lower half; if it’s too tight, it stays in the closet; if it’s too hot, it probably works. Here and there it’s nice to throw on a pair of shorts and just say “mazal tov”, but that’s usually when I’m feeling particularly uninterrupted and unaffected. Wearing things that are above my knee have proven to be fine as long as my bottom is not tightly revealed. The only choice at the end of the day is to think to myself, “The men are products of their environment and do not mean to offend me.” One of the boys in my dorm hall told me that they don’t mean pry or to make a woman feel uncomfortable, they only mean to express gratefulness to an attractive human being. When a Ghanaian man says flattery an American girl says sexual harassment. None-the-less, appreciating someone’s looks only is not valuing them as a human being, rather devaluing them entirely.

Traditional African music and sexualizing of the lower body has, in fact, carried into our own culture. Obviously Ghana is not the only culprit; rather it is the world as a whole. I completely understand that a man can be in awe by a woman’s beauty because women can be just the same about a man, but to treat her as solely beauty alone is quite the problem. I don’t want to sound like some kind of raging feminist; it’s not just women I’m concerned for. I've been able to see how this hurts the citizens, even the men, of this society. Most of the kids at the orphanage, boys and girls, have a very similar back story: their mothers have either passed away or have been divorced by their husbands and no longer have “assets” to provide for their children. The fathers that give their children away have not been taught the skills it takes to raise a child; in fact, it is socially frowned upon for a man to solely raise a child. The divorced women who cannot afford to raise their children alone have to give them away because this society is just barely allowing women means to survive alone. This leaves the children to a lifestyle very harmful to their development. If there were not such division of genders, I strongly believe the orphan numbers would decrease. By looking at a woman solely as means to reproduction, people in this society are devaluing their capability and potential. It implies that women are strictly for means of childbearing and then keeps the men from taking on these skills as well. I am seeing just how powerful the idea of sex can truly be.

Being an American girl in such a gendered society has given me a new appreciation for American girls; we may be loud, we may use foul language at times, we may even be slightly offensive here and there…but God dammit, we are free. A filter is unnecessary a lot of the time and our attire is exactly what we want it to be. I may not miss the loudness, but I do miss such opinionated mouths. We are eager products of an equally gendered society. There is always more room for equality of genders, and it should always be fought for, but I find myself thanking my country for allowing such equality to take place. Ghana has made me feel like I’m actually a girl…imagine that. I always looked at feminists, I'm sure like most people do, as strictly women for women empowerment. I realize now that is not the case; feminists are people for the balance of genders. Giving women their freedom, rights, and separation from gender roles empowers men just as much as it does women. It is no longer just about taking women out of the sexual spotlight; it is about men stepping into other aspects of societal roles as well. 

Nante Yie.

Emily Chamberlain

Porcelain Idols

I am having wonderful, eye-opening experiences just one after another; I feel like my time here in Ghana is being so well spent. This weekend I went to the Volta region and fed wild monkeys, climbed the tallest point of Ghana, and swam in a waterfall- awesome. However, I have to admit….I am mentally exhausted. They say that studying abroad is like a roller-coaster- one minute you’re at the climax of your life and feeling unstoppable, and the next your stomach is turning and you just want your mother.  There are so many cultural and social differences that I just want to understand, but the adjustments needed to fit in have proven to be very difficult. I’m having no problems connecting and making genuine friendships, but at the moment I am being faced with constant cultural challenges. Being white in Ghana is much different than being, well, anything else but white in America. Let me explain…

Chapter Four: Porcelain Idols

Cape Coast Slave Fort

Everywhere I go I am constantly stared at; this wouldn't bother me so much if it were simply because I’m different, but that’s not the case at all. Yesterday I spoke with a Ghanaian man about his opinion of Ghana and America; he told me something that just about broke my heart. A Ghanaian actually said, “The white way is the right way, because they have everything they want.” He told me the reason they all stare at me so much is because they idolize me; they see a wealthy human being with all the means in the world to make her dreams come true, all because of my ethnicity. The bit that really bothered me about his view was when he said, “white people are the most powerful and wealthy people in the world and that’s why Africans want to be your friend.” Ouch…I understand that education brings truth and awareness that not all Ghanaians are privileged to have, but my feelings are, nonetheless, hurt. I’m getting very worn out on looks of monetary interest and Africans trying to take advantage of me just because of this ideal my skin color falsely portrays.  I am trying not to be discouraged; after all, Americans have their own perceptions of Africa as well. Many think all Africans hunt and gather and live in mud huts…some do, but most do not.  Some of the world’s first and greatest civilizations were based in Africa- where would any white man be without African foundations and labor? I see every single day just how privileged I am to be American, so I can understand this Ghanaian perception -But is white culture and history the one to idolize?

My conversation with the Ghanaian man started by him asking what I thought of racism; I explained to him that I believe it is a crime to humanity. Racism implies a genetic superiority and difference between human beings according to this socially constructed ideology of “race”. Race itself doesn't even exist; someone of a completely different color and gender can be more genetically similar to you than someone of your same color and gender. The foundation of race comes from times of slavery when the Europeans believed that buying an African meant saving him or her from a barbaric way of life otherwise. When I got to Ghana the first things I learned, beside how humid it is, was the truth about slavery. To bluntly and briefly explain- Europeans planted the seed of dependency in Africans to the point that they would do anything to obtain European comforts. Africans, long ago, banned their criminals to other societies that would take them in and allow them to start over and rise within that social system, but after the Europeans came along the criminals were sold off. The rise in demand and prices for slaves forced Africans into an economy solely of short-term interests rather than long term, an economy that is still affected today. Maybe I’m just behind, but regardless, my schooling never taught me this truth; I never knew that Africans actually sold their own people. I never had to experience the great suffering their economy still feels, until now. The slave trade got them into patterns of trade and business that only helps them so short-term and never in the long-run. They played just as much a part of the trade as white people...but the oppression they face today is mostly on us. 

Africa has been, for the last couple hundred years, a primary producer- they give us the raw, natural goods for very cheap and we secondary and tertiary producers utilize these goods for further production…only to sell it back to the very source we bought it from for a much greater price. Take chocolate for example- cocoa from Africa is bought for very little by America and Europe, who adds all the fatty ingredients to make it tasty and then sells it to industries and corporations that just sell it right back to Africa for much higher prices than they sold the cocoa for…talk about oppression. They give more than they are able to receive.  Africa does not have the money, or rather is not allowed the opportunity to gain money, and not yet the education to become secondary and tertiary producers; they are forced to allow other countries to take their resources for granted. Some say this is their fault, but as human beings we should all know better to not take advantage of a culture that way.

White culture has been, and still is, to take ruthlessly without thinking of the harm it may do to others. Yet, we are all porcelain idols. Our history shows that white people came to power and wealth by suppressing those of other cultures; it’s an ugly history, but there is nothing to do but remember and move forward. We must be thankful for our privileges, forgive ourselves and one another for historic relations, and move on…or like those kids of the 90’s would say: “Cry me a river, build me a bridge, and get over it.” That puts a whole new, positive, spin on the phrase don’t you think? Education prevents history from repeating itself, if it’s taught truthfully.If we are truly learning from our ancestor’s mistakes, then why are we moving so slowly? Why do we human beings put our own countries and economy before one another? Why are we not yet entirely human beings for human beings? We are all equals, equally at fault...and it is time to be equally involved.

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed, citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.” 

― Margaret Mead

Nante Yie.

Emily Chamberlain

For Money or Meaning?

I knew before I arrived in Ghana that the water and electricity would not exactly be deemed reliable, but I definitely underestimated the amount of time we would all go without. Bucket showers and walks of shame to the other dorm halls have become my new best friends for the last month. When I was horribly sick for a week straight as my body was adapting to the food and water here, that entire week was water-less; I thought to myself, “This is going to be the longest four months of my life”. To my surprise, a month has already flown by. I’m finding that I have adapted to this environment very quickly. Although the humidity has me in a constant sweat and the water to wash it off is not always available, I find myself so happy in these conditions. I have my mother to thank for not ever allowing me to be raised high-maintenance. Being an outdoorsy Nevadan who has grown up camping, hiking, and roughing it has really prepared me for anti-extravagant travels. Many people would look at these conditions and lifestyles all across Africa and frown upon it all; they would pity those who don’t have consistency and conveniences so available to them. I can’t help but question, if these Ghanaians had all our Western comforts, would they feel any happier?

Chapter Three: For Money or Meaning?

Westernized cultures have, well, multiple issues to conquer, but one big one is the comfort of money. People have this belief that they can only go as far as their money allows and that happiness is found through the conveniences money can bring. Being here in Ghana has proven the exact opposite to me…on top of being a financially independent student. The people here see no judgment that power and money brings, only obvious facts; rather than being offended when someone calls them fat or says their outfit is horrendous, they accept this as a mere description or opinion of their equal. They base their conversations and happiness on their emotional compatibility with their environment, not their material compatibility. Many friendships I have seen through my life have been those of convenience; they have been based off of common interests in material goods and money based values. Is this real to people? Is this the point of life? I can completely understand the value of every day comforts for a Westerner…what I would kill for a bubble bath and a clean bed. What I don’t understand is this idea that coming from a privileged country means that this is the only way to live, the right way to live. History shows that Europeans and Americans have constantly forced their ideologies and beliefs on other cultures. When has any African country tried to force their ways on others? You can blame money and development for the capability of doing these things to other cultures, but actually it takes will and ethnocentrism to accomplish this. When someone is raised in a privileged environment, this becomes all that they know; in a sense we are all slaves and victims to the environments that shape us.  Just because someone is living differently, doesn't mean they are wrong; they too are molded by the environment that has raised them. The money may be lacking and the comforts may not be visible, but the quality of life here is no less valuable than a golden city.

Life is supposed to be genuine, meaningful, and a pursuit to a better self. I have to stop and ask myself, and the very country that raised me…do our comforts improve us, or destroy us? When such value is placed on our external comforts, less value is placed on internal growth. Here in Africa, the people love freely and generosity is a given. To me, a natural, genuine life is the only one that truly makes sense. To destroy that and to take advantage of that just because we believe our ways are better is the most offensive crime to human beings. Live as you will and experience life as you see fit, but never doubt the potential and capability of a lifestyle just because it is different or not your own. Going without for a while is proving to be one of the most evolving experiences of my life.

The Beacon House Children

Today I spent the day teaching first grade at the orphanage. There are 6 kids in the class between 6 and 8 years old. All of them are at different levels of mathematics and English, but overall they catch on so quickly and genuinely care to learn. The children here in Ghana, and in Africa in general, are incredibly self-sufficient. From the moment they are born they are given space and belief that they can teach themselves how to grow. They are obviously loved and supported through these younger stages of life, but for the most part the children find their own way. I've not seen any of them fuss or whine or even act ungrateful for anything they have been given; they are treated and expected to be like active members of society…very small members of society. No mother coddles her child or gives them what they want if they cry hard enough, they simply give the children the tools of life and allow them to utilize those tools as they themselves see fit. Take that America.

I am quickly falling in love with the children at Beacon. They have this wonderful innocence about them that allows them to open their hearts to complete strangers; they would trust anyone who sat them down to read Winnie the Pooh. After all that they have been through, after all the traumatic experiences they have had and horrifying fear they have felt, they never give up; they fight for attention and love, and they watch one another’s backs. To understand what I see every day at the Beacon House, I've decided to introduce you all to a handful of the children. For legal purposes I will not be able to disclose any of their names or personal history, just know these kids are troopers.

Chapter Two: The Beacon House Children

“Ray Wonder”

This little nugget is “Ray”. He was the first one I met and the first one I will introduce. When I walked in the gate for the first time, he wrapped his little arms around my legs and pointed at the swing; he really loves swinging. He is a visually impaired child who just needs a little affection. When I picked “Ray” up for the first time and swung him upside down, he completely zoned out; he stared at the sun…which he does too often…and completely relaxed. I take him around the courtyard sometimes and put his hands on the leaves and flowers just so he can get a feeling for all the things he can now see; he gets so excited. Nothing he does is wrong in my eyes, and if he’s not adopted by the time I’m financially stable, rest assured, I will be back.

“Handsome”

This wonderful human being is “Handsome”. Every morning I walk in and touch his hand and he pets mine back. He has a passion for music and piano, like myself, and rocks back and forth to any sound he hears. When I first played his keyboard with him, he stroked my hand in approval. I've never heard him speak and I know I never will, but no matter; he wears his heart on his sleeve and his voice in the pet of his hands. He keeps to himself, but I don’t think there will ever be a day in his life that he feels anything but happy.

“Mama Bear”

Although “Mama Bear” is obviously not this little angel’s name, it is a perfect reflection of her. In class she guides everyone through counting and the alphabet; when someone isn't paying attention she’ll simply shout at them in her thick accent things I don’t understand; it works every time.  I've bonded especially with “Mama Bear” because of her genuine care for all. Although I am there to teach her, she has really taught me so much about interacting with and getting through to the other kids. She tells me things about the others to help me understand them, and she is always looking out for me like she doesn't want to see anyone disrespect me; it’s really beautiful to see such a young girl have such awareness to others and their differences. She handles her own and has such a powerful presence. I hope she remembers just how far she can go and how wonderful she is when she faces the real world someday.

“Petey”

“Petey” and his older brother are two of the quickest learning children I have ever met; they have a real enthusiasm for education and a charm that would make up for lack of it anyhow. “Petey” is genuine and loving, and from time to time he can be very sensitive. He loves being center of attention and having piles of books read to him. Whenever I bring out a new book for him his little eyes light up and he starts dancing around; sounds like a real dream child right? He listens eagerly and always goes back over the pictures at the end of a story; the kids always have to wait around for him to be done scanning the photos one more time before they start a new book. I know “Petey” and his brother will make some family very proud one day. They have so much love to offer.

“Romeo”

This little attention hog is “Romeo”. He has a real way with the ladies but is just too excitable to give one person attention for too long. One minute he’s begging to have a puzzle buddy and the next he is running off with someone’s shoe. When he’s around a lot of people he tends to bounce off the walls, but sometimes I catch him alone just standing in one place staring at the sky and observing the world; it’s actually quite adorable. He has a real curiosity for life and the energy to fulfill it.  

The Beacon House children have taught me something very important about love and life: our minds are fragile, and the memories we choose to fill it with and act on should be full of love we can offer to everyone every day.  These kids have accepted their pasts for what they are and love regardless, which is not easily said about many people. They allow their memories to shape the people they are today, but without bitterness and without shutting the world out. It makes me think about all the people of this world and how we all react so differently to pain and upsetting memories; some people tune out of life altogether. I think it is so important for us to use the lessons from our memories to make us smarter and more eager to learn like these children have decided to do, rather than turn off and tune out. They keep fighting for love and affection, and they trust openly. If a young child can do this every day after seeing more pain than most will see in a lifetime, I think we are all very capable of doing just the same. Love on people. Love on. 

Nante Yie.

Emily Chamberlain

Knowing Your Place

For the last 6 months and a bit I had been living in Melbourne, Australia; I got to see shiny things and a sugar coated life I couldn't afford. I heard lovely accents, disproved silly stereotypes, and saw things many people only see through National Geographic. I was thankful, but I wasn't where I belonged. I had so much to look at and nothing to feel...so I made a decision to change my life for the better. I packed up and I switched my happy little self over to the University of Ghana. For those of you who don't know much about Ghana, it's a peaceful, independent country in West Africa that makes me look white enough to write on. Life here is slow and patient; I realized the city miles I had wracked up and am so ready to put them in their grave. After just 3 weeks and 4 days here, I have been inspired to write this blog. I want to share with my friends, family

and randoms all the experiences and world issues that have started to change my life in hopes that it will change yours. So here it is-

Chapter 1: Knowing Your Place

No matter how many white people a Ghanaian or it's immigrants sees in his or her life, they will always be "O'brunei" or foreigner. It's like something seen on TV- the kids run and tug at your fingers and laugh at your silly accents and want candy from strangers. It's such a fantastic experience being an obvious minority in this society. The people here are patient and welcoming; they shout "Akwaaba!" (welcome) and "Eta sen?!" (how are you?) and are so helpful when I attempt speaking Twi. It's nothing like how the US treats their "minorities". They want to understand me just as much as I want to understand them. There are major do's and don'ts, but it's interesting adapting to the customs here, like: never use your left hand when greeting, and say hello to people as you walk by as a sign of respect, and always greet your elders but never ask how they are doing- I'm going to come back to the states either the friendliest or strangest American there ever was.
I am starting to understand and adore this culture faster than I thought possible. I love how the people speak from their hearts, I even love how they try to give me directions when they don't know them. I'm getting this genuine and personal experience here that Australia really lacked for me. It may have been a detour to the right country, but now I can appreciate this experience more than I could have before.

What really inspired me to write this blog was the Beacon House Orphanage. I volunteer there 3 days of the week teaching preschool and first grade as well as a music class on the side. The founder is a sweet American woman who gets so attached to the children I'm surprised they all aren't hers yet...but I do have a few issues with it all. There are 22 children in the orphanage, some Ghanaian and some from it's surrounding countries- not a single one of them speaks the language of their country or of the society they may live in the rest of their lives. The children are being supported, what more could you ask for? How about- THEIR IDENTITY! On the off chance that these children are never adopted, as many of them are older now, these children will have American values in a Ghanaian society. Already, you can see the children that go to school off the orphanage campus acting out as a result of frustration failing to identify themselves with their peers. Language in the Ghanaian culture creates a natural bond and trust between themselves; they help one another more efficiently when they have a genuine concern and connection with one another. It's hard enough not having biological parents, imagine not being able to understand your own culture or the culture you may be in for the rest of your life. I don't understand why the only three Ghanaian women in the orphanage are not allowed to speak anything but English or teach the children their cultural values. I've made this my new project; I'm having Ghanaian women teach me school songs that reflect their culture and anything else that will help the kids. I don't know if the founder or its employees and volunteers are attempting to Americanize the children, but either way I don't think it's appropriate- maybe they really don't understand.
In just 3 weeks I have found more direction for my life; I have found purpose and my place within it. There are so many things and people I want you all to understand, but that will all be introduced throughout my posts.

Nante Yie.
Emily Chamberlain